Here's Part Two of Coast Weekend's selective guide to Columbia-Pacific region restaurants, places where you might nosh a burrito or a burger, savor salmon or other ocean bounty, slice into a thick 'n juicy hunk of beef, sip wine, quaff a brew or share a dessert with your sweetie.

Restaurant hours vary; phone ahead to avoid disappointment.

Lazy Spoon Cafe

10 Sixth St., Suite 107, Astoria, (503) 325-4220

Recommended but not rated $

Greek food is an uncommon occurrence in Astoria. This newish breakfast-lunch stop, whose owners are of Latino descent, is the place for gyros, gorgeously presented pita pockets crammed with strips of grilled beef or chicken breast (instead of lamb), as well as chopped tomatoes, shredded greens and a heapin' helping of tzatziki, a cucumber-yogurt sauce. Souvlaki, lemon-herb chicken, Greek salad and bacon cheeseburgers, and an impressive breakfast lineup are other options.

Lil' Bayou

20 N. Holladay Drive, Seaside, (503) 717-0624

Three stars $$

You can't choose among crawfish etoufee, jambalaya, boudin blanc, hush puppies, alligator and mague choux at any other Columbia-Pacific region restaurant, save for this bastion of Cajun-Creole cuisine. Don't be timid; chef John Sowa's cooking is subtly seasoned rather than hot 'n spicy. Live music often plays in the restaurant's Magnolia Lounge, a sultry setting to sip an exotic libation and take in the tunes.

Marzano's Pizza Pie

60 Laneda Ave., Manzanita, (503) 368-3663

Two and a half stars $-$$

Pizza at the beach always seems like a good idea. Try this cheery corner establishment within earshot of breaking waves for umpteen varieties. Best of the bunch may be the smoked prosciutto brushed with olive oil, sprinkled with garlic and herbs and topped with roasted onions, thinly sliced red taters, prosciutto and two cheeses. Also popular are meat and veggie calzones and a memorable Insalata Grande.


714 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 738-5232

Two stars $$

Family-friendly can be a nebulous concept in the restaurant world. Take the kids to this Gilbert District eatery and let them choose among chocolate-chip pancakes, bacon and cheese scrambles, fish 'n chips, barbecue cheeseburgers and peanut butter-fudge pie. You and the other adults might opt for cinnamon-swirl French toast, pan-fried oysters, chicken or veggie teriyaki rice bowls or the Hunter's sirloin, a hulking hunk of charbroiled beef.

Moby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm

25814 Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash., (360) 665-4543

Four stars $$-$$$

Culinary standout Jeff McMahon has departed, but we're hopeful that the Moby's kitchen will continue to purvey the uncomplicated but supremely satisfying Mediterranean-influenced meals that became his trademark - curried potato soup, a distinguished Caesar, spring garden lasagna, spaghetti tossed with oysters and pancetta, plus mango shortcake, chocolate pot au creme and multifarious flavors of kitchen-crafted ice creams and sorbets.

Nehalem River Inn

34910 Oregon Highway 53, Mohler, (503) 368-7708

Three and a half stars $$$

A country-formal dining experience in the middle of Nehalem Valley cow country is the order of the evening at this cozy restaurant situated on a bank above the Nehalem River. Chef Ryan Hamic butchers his own meat, and his Painted Hills (Ore.) New York steak is peerless. Seared scallops and Columbia River salmon smeared with red wine butter are equally estimable.

Newmans at 988

988 Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-1151

Three stars $$$

Poached ling cod drizzled with caviar-cream sauce, foie gras pasta with black truffle shavings, lobster ravioli, Italian-inspired crab cakes. This intimate dinner house in midtown Cannon Beach is decidedly upscale. But chef John Newman makes no compromises; his food is worth the healthy tariff, and a meal here is an experience to be savored, especially if capped by one of pastry chef Nancy Daggatt's scrumptious pot au cremes or gelatos.

Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe

601 Pacific Way, Gearhart, (503) 738-0245

Three stars $$-$$$

I frequently pick up a loaf of potato-dill, molasses-oatmeal or whatever bread is available at this airy urban-feel eatery with a bakery attached. Lisa Allen's muffins, scones and flavored croissants are likewise drop-jaw delightful. Imaginative salads, creative risottos, spectacular seasonal vegetarian entrees (butternut squash-sage bread pudding) and surf-turf delights are popular in the cafe, and pizzas are superlative.

Port Bistro

235 Howerton St., Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-8447

Three stars $$

Windows on Ilwaco's waterfront, a copper-covered serving bar, a small but exciting menu and big pours of wine served in tumblers (half glasses, too), the Port Bistro (under new ownership) remains a fine locale to recharge your batteries after hiking the Discovery Trail or strolling Ilwaco's Harbor Village. The food is bistro-hearty: roasted onion soup, sesame-coated oysters sided with herb-infused fried potatoes, cioppino, a New York peppercorn steak and more.

Rio Cafe

125 Ninth St., Astoria, (503) 325-2409

Three stars $-$$

Seven burritos, south-of-the-border-inspired soups, chili-stewed pork and Chorizo con Huevos (eggs scrambled with pork sausage, onions and tomatoes) are on tap at this cute and unfussy Tex-Mex cantina. Heat-seeking diners can opt for Pescado Rijo, pan-fried sole or snapper crusted with a ferocious garlic and red chile salsa, or Camarones ala Diabla, sauteed tiger prawns with a similar mouth-searing kick. For dessert, flan comes in flavors from cinnamon and chocolate to pumpkin and vanilla.

The Schooner Twelfth Street Bistro

360 12th St., Astoria, (503) 325-7882

Three stars $$

A favored stop for singles, cuddling couples and across-the-street Hotel Elliott guests, the Schooner offers a lounge manned by topnotch barkeeps and a restaurant that serves finger foods, Thai fusion salads, twin-patty buffalo burgers and full-fledged meals, such as a ribeye sided by asparagus spears and garlicky mashers. The milieu may seem chic, but the mood is mellow.

The Ship Inn

1 Second St., Astoria, (503) 325-0033

Not rated $$

Sometimes you want to steer clear of fancy and just order a plate of fish 'n chips. Head for the Ship, in business for umpteen years and still the top choice for delicately breaded halibut, prawns, oysters, calamari or cod accompanied by an ample portion of plank fries. Meat pies and British cheeses, too, and the Ship's bar pours Guinness.

The Shoalwater

4415 Pacific Way, Seaview, Wash., (360) 642-4142

Four stars $$$

No roundup of Columbia-Pacific region restaurants would be complete without The Shoalwater, recently rated one of the top 100 hotel restaurants in the country (and one of just three in the Northwest) by USA Today. It's hard to go wrong with anything exiting chef Lynne "Red" Pelletier's kitchen - braised Moroccan chicken, salmon enlivened by citrus, tarragon and white wine, duck breast bathed in a blackberry-cranberry-truffle reduction and anything concocted with wild mushrooms ... the list goes on. The across-the-foyer Heron and Beaver Pub is a pint-sized delight.

Silver Salmon Grille

1105 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 338-6640

Two and a half stars $$-$$$

The Northwest's favorite fish, prepared multiple ways, draws raves at this downtown restaurant and wine bar that boasts Astoria's most extensive surf 'n turf selection. Come dessert, it's hard to resist bananas Foster, an oversized blend of sauteed bananas, ice cream and booze all aflame. Silver Salmon Cellars features a substantial assortment of vino, by the bottle and glass. House pours come from Washington's well-regarded Maryhill Winery.

T Paul's Urban Cafe

1119 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 338-5133

Two and a half stars $-$$

Tables can become scarce at noontime or weekend evenings, testimony to the Urban's popularity as a hangout for everybody from well-garbed professionals of both genders to members of up and coming garage bands. Roasted chicken quesadillas, prawn fettuccine and the humongous house salad are all worthwhile choices, as are the cheesecakes and sundry chocolate concoctions.

Wanda's Cafe

2850 U.S. Highway 101, Nehalem, (503) 368-8100

Two and a half stars $-$$

It's not fern-bar fussy, and it's not quite a neighborhood cafe, either. No, Wanda's is simply one of the region's finest breakfast and lunch stops. Smoked-salmon omelets, cinnamon-oat waffles, lean-beef French dip and club sandwiches and a top-drawer rendition of huevos rancheros keep the customers coming. Owner Wendy Crosta knows her way around an oven, too. Don't miss her muffins, tarts, cobblers, coffeecake and superlative dense and intense scones.

Warren House Pub

3301 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-1130

Three stars $$

No local watering hole so closely embodies the convivial atmosphere of Portland's world-renowned pub scene, yet Warren House is also a serious restaurant. Smoked ribs, lamb pitas, seared ahi and weekend eggs 'n oysters are on the menu. Enjoy your grub with one of the touted ales crafted by Jack Harris at Bill's Tavern & Brewhouse, a couple miles north and under the same ownership as Warren House.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail


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