The Columbia-Pacific region boasts too many notable restaurants to fit into one week's column. (For other restaurants chosen as Summer's Best Bites, see the June 23 Coast Weekend.) Don't treat these as leftovers - every eatery listed here should be considered top-shelf.

Light bites or full meals

Everything's take-out at pint-sized Bread and Ocean (387 Laneda Ave., Manzanita, (503) 368-5823, $), but the noshes are sensational. Daily breads (polenta and potato loaves, brioche, herbed-olive, onion-rye), whole-wheat cinnamon rolls and other baked goodies are staples. Stouter sustenance includes couscous salad and various panini and baguette sandwiches.

A cute cafe fronting the Ilwaco mooring basin, the Canoe Room (161 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-4899, $$) serves chicken-basil sausage hoagies, pan-fried local oysters and other simply prepared seafood. Sunday brunch (smoked salmon, wild mushroom crepes and such), too.

You can't get more homey than Corpeny's (2281 Beach Drive, Seaside, (503) 738-7353, $), a delightful breakfast and lunch lair a block from the beach. Egg and potato scrambles, omelets bursting with choice ingredients and extraordinary sandwiches - say chicken salad spiked with toasted almonds, dried cranberries and pineapple on house Tuscan Peasant bread - are solid picks.

Wildly popular burger night is gone for the summer, but The Depot (1206 38th Place, Seaview, Wash., (360) 642-7880, $$) continues to pack plenty of internationally inspired culinary punch: Bangkok scallops seared with chili-lime sauce; ginger-infused pork served on wasabi rice; and honey-dipped fried chicken paired with jalapeno creamed corn.

Dining protocol at Fulio's Pastaria (1149 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 325-9001, $-$$): Begin with the oversized seared Caesar salad, move on to one of a dozen or more pasta dishes (or the superb eggplant parmigiana), then finish with a "slice" of crustless lemon cheesecake. Mamma mia!

A self-acclaimed European-style charcuterie (a French term that refers both to the cooking of meats and the deli-type places where they're sold), Gower St. Bistro (1116 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-2729, $$) sells a cache of meats and cheese, along with Grand Marnier French toast, Cuban pork panini, grilled polenta cakes, even a plate of pommes frites.

Every summer weekend morning, patrons queue up for Lisa Allen's breads and pastries at the east end of Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe (601 Pacific Way, Gearhart, (503) 738-0245, $$-$$$). The cafe side is equally enticing, offering hot roast beef and other sandwiches, buttermilk-coated razors, seafood stew and the Oregon Coast's finest pizzas.

Ilwaco's rejuvenated harbor affords an ideal backdrop for Pauly's Bistro (235 Howerton St., Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-8447, $$), a cute yet kitschy establishment that's all over the culinary map. The changeable a la carte menu might list Tuscan bread salad, pork pozole, meat loaf drizzled with cranberry ketchup and, of course, fresh-caught saltwater bounty.

The uber-hip Schooner Twelfth Street Bistro (360 12th St., Astoria, (503) 325-7882, $-$$) is the restaurant of record for its across-the-street partner, the Hotel Elliott. The Schooner's menu is a pleasant graze: lamb gyros, fish tacos, buffalo burgers and heartier fare such as grilled New York steak with buttermilk mashers and occasional troll-caught Columbia River salmon.

T. Paul's Urban Cafe (1119 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 338-5133, $) attracts a heady cross section of the local dining-out crowd. And no wonder, what with expertly brewed libations, jerked-chicken quesadillas, pesto-prawn pasta and a solid salad lineup. Desserts tend toward extravagant, including prodigious portions of pie a la mode.

Taking its inspiration from across the Atlantic, Warren House Pub (3301 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-1130, $$) affords a convivial neighborhood atmosphere, but with better grub than most British public houses. Smoked lamb pita pockets, ahi coated in yogurt and wasabi and pork ribs glazed with citrusy barbecue sauce are some of the options.

Four-star eateries

Outside the Moby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm (25814 Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash., (360) 665-4543, $$) is one of this region's premier organic gardens. The produce lends pizzazz to three-bean soup flavored with leeks and rosemary, potato-sage ravioli, chicken roasted with garlic and carrots and extraordinary oyster preparations, the bivalves harvested out back in the Moby Dick's own beds. For dessert, berry tarts graced with an always-changing array of ice creams and sorbets are tops.

At the Shoalwater Restaurant (4415 Pacific Highway, Seaview, Wash., (360) 642-4142, $$$), chef Lynne "Red" Pelletier and crew work wonders with all manner of land or sea fixings, while pastry diva Ann Kischner creates extraordinary cheesecakes and bread puddings. Order the impossibly rich French silk pie only if you dare. Shoalwater's wine cellar is the coast's finest, and the across-the-foyer Heron & Beaver Pub offers a romantic retreat for after-dinner liquid refreshment.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com

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