SEASIDE -- There lies on the western shore of Oregon, from Astoria to Brookings, a coastline unlike any other, where the sky is often pigeon gray and the water temperature never a degree or two above frigid.

It has beaches unlike those in a Corona ad. There are no weaving palms dropping coconuts onto a pillow of warm sand. On our beach, firs tower from rocky cliffs, trees as wide around as Jack's beanstalk, trees that could crush your entire family if they fell.

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